Merry Christmas!

Hello everybody - Merry Christmas!



It's Christmas Eve here in Saas-Fee (as you can tell from the unopened pressies!) - our home for the next three nights. We're in the most idyllic village surrounded by the Swiss alps. Have updated the blog (sorry - another writing marathon) to include our Austrian adventures and the journey to here. Will post again after we've had our Christmas day.

Saturday 20th

Had another quick look around Sopron and took some daylight photos. It was a real treat to be in this town – we didn’t see any other tourists and felt like we were mixing with the locals.

As Sopron is in the far west of Hungary, it wasn’t long before we crossed the border into Austria. We had a lot of distance to cover today so stuck mostly to the motorways.

We did make time, though, for a visit to beautiful Vienna. Saw the Opera House (had a mental picture of you, Mum Judy – camping out to see Pavarotti!!), the Rathaus (Town Hall), St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Schonbrunn Palace. Did some window shopping (all we could afford to do!) and had a coffee in a coffee house (the thing to do).


Louise enjoying the sights of Vienna



Phil outside St Stephen's Cathedral - Vienna

Off again – bound for our home for the next three nights – Salzburg. Phil did a sterling job of negotiating the roads in quite heavy rain. Arrived safely just after dark and, after checking in to our hotel, set off on foot to explore Salzburg. Our hotel is in the new town – about a ten minute walk across the river from the old town where most of the main attractions are located. Had a bit of a look around before finding a restaurant and enjoying some great local food. (We’re sure we don’t need to tell you - of course we also checked out one of the many Christmas markets!).

Sunday 21st

Not to be deterred by the rain, we donned our wet weather gear and had a brilliant day in Salzburg. Our first stop was Mozart’s birthplace – a beautiful house down one of the cobbled laneways. Next we visited the Residenzplatz where we discovered the work of contemporary local artist – Johanna Kopp (check out her website http://www.johanna-kopp.at/). Were particularly taken by her impressions of Salzburg. Checked out the Cathedral and then the beautiful St Peterskirche. The cemetery behind St Peterskirche (the inspiration for the scene in the Sound of Music where the Von Trapps hid - you remember... that scene with Rolf!) leads to the Catacombs – literally dug into the side of the cliff face – accessed via a very steep, carved set of stairs.


The churchyard behind St Peterskirche - catacombs to the right and Fortress on the hill behind

From there we climbed the massive hill (more stairs!!) to reach the Fortress – the beautiful hilltop castle that dominates the town – where the many archbishop-princes who have ruled Salzburg have lived over the years. Parts of it date as far back as 1077. Spent a couple of hours thoroughly enjoying all this structure has to offer – fabulous architecture from throughout the ages, a museum housing a vast collection of items salvaged from the region, state rooms – even a marionette museum (you can guess which Sound of Music song Louise started singing when she saw the puppets - you didn't know she could yodel, did you? (that's because she can't!!).


Phil discovered a hidden talent - puppeteering!


View over Salzburg from the Fortress - see how high we climbed?

Made our way back down the hill to find the Nonnberg Abbey where the Sound of Music first finds Maria and where Maria and Georg were married in real life – more singing by Louise!!

In the evening, we caught the funicular back up the hill to the Fortress (no need to do the stairs twice in one day!) for a fabulous concert featuring Mozart, Schubert and Vivaldi. Beautiful chamber music – strings (including harp) and flute - in an awesome setting – a lovely way to end the day.

Louise just after the concert in the Fortress

Monday 22nd

Decided to take a drive in the country to admire the beautiful scenery of the Austrian lakes district.

We weren’t too far out of Salzburg before we were into picturesque alpine villages covered by thick snow. Stopped and explored a few to sample the local coffee and hot chocolate!















Louise couldn’t resist a play in the snow by the roadside – then endured wet pants for the rest of the day!! (Thank goodness for heated seats in the car!).

Something magic about Christmas time in the snow - Louise only got me once with a snowball!!


Of course I had to retaliate!

Were absolutely taken by Hallstatt – a beautiful village that clings to the side of a mountain and overlooks a massive lake. Lingered for a while here. The scenery around this village is breathtaking.

The lakeside village of Hallstatt

Made our way back to Salzburg for a last evening wander – this time exploring the new town. Discovered hidden laneways, churches, and walked through the Schloss Mirabell gardens (to the relief of the residents of Salzburg, Louise resisted singing Sound of Music songs on this occasion...). Climbed a hill to a deserted churchyard to be rewarded with a magnificent view over the rooftops of Salzburg. While we were up there, church bells throughout the town started ringing – adding to the atmosphere (or heralding our departure??). A lovely end to our time in this beautiful city.

Tuesday 23rd

Today we made our way across Austria – heading in the direction of our Christmas destination – Switzerland. Our aim was to reach Feldkirch – on the far western border of Austria (almost in Liechtenstein) by nightfall – allowing time for a few stops on the way.

Our first stop was the beautiful village of Rattenberg. We spotted the ruined castle and church spires from the road and couldn’t resist taking a closer look. Really glad we stopped.

Christmas tree in the town square at Rattenberg

Next stop – Innsbruck. This beautiful city in the Tirol region (everything you expect Austrian scenery to be) is nestled at the foot of the surrounding snow-covered alps. Spent a couple of hours wandering the medieval section of the town and finished our Christmas shopping.

Phil captures the magic of the River Inn flowing from the alps past the Old Town of Innsbruck



Phil - Innsbruck

Back in the car for the final leg of our trek across Austria. The scenery was absolutely amazing – one main road through the centre of the alps – massive snow-covered mountains on either side – and heaps of tunnels (one was 10km long!). Arrived in Feldkirch as planned – our last stop in Austria. Tomorrow – through Liechtenstein to Saas-Fee in Switzerland for a three day Christmas break!!

Phil the publisher - organising the blog in Feldkirch

Wednesday 24th

Left Feldkirch reasonably early for us (9am - well... it's hard to get up before 8 when it's dark and cold!!). First stop - Liechtenstein's capital - Vaduz, which is dominated by a Gothic castle where the monarch lives. Had a bit of a look around before setting off again in the direction of Saas-Fee.

As Liechtenstein is only 25km long and 6km wide, it wasn't long before we crossed the border into Switzerland. Climbed and climbed and climbed the alps bound for our destination. Some of those roads are amazingly winding - hairpin bend after hairpin bend.


You can just see the winding roads in this photo

We were almost at the top of a very high peak - sailing along quite nicely - when our sat nav - in her polite robotic fashion said... 'in 30 meters turn left and board the ferry'(!!). In unision - we both replied ever so eloquently... 'What????'

Obedient as ever, we continued and found ourselves in a queue to board a car train which ferries all vehicular traffic through a 15.4 kilometer long tunnel. We now know that this is the Furka Base Tunnel which links two towns at approximately 1500m above sea level. This was quite an experience!!


In the queue for the car train

Once through the peak we descended to the town of Brig and then climbed up and up again to the village of Saas-Fee. The scenery was absolutely awesome. Thick, thick snow each side of the road and on all roof-tops.

As Saas-Fee is a car free village, all cars must be parked in the parking station and the rest of the journey from there to the village and one's accommodation can be undertaken by walking, by electric taxi, or by a courtesy electric car generally offered by each individual hotel (including ours). As we'd been in the car for most of the day and have become quite addicted to exercise, we elected to walk. This was very silly - repeat... very silly! No map - a maze of chalets and hotels connected by icy windy paths... our wheelie suitcases becoming bogged at every turn. At one stage we contemplated using them as toboggans! To our relief (it was getting dark and a tad cool!!), we eventually found our way to our hotel.

Recovered from our ordeal and tackled the pathways again to explore a little. We're going to love it here! It's got a great atmosphere - skiers, snowboarders, people like us just wanting to enjoy the location. Shops were open until 6:30ish tonight - restaurants are open and everything opens again tomorrow afternoon (Christmas Day). We've booked Christmas dinner in our hotel restaurant, which looks great.

Mum Judy - we returned from our walk to find your Christmas card on the door of our room - what a brilliant surprise!! Thank you so much for that - it's a really special thing to do. Louise shed a tear or two... It's displayed in our room - reminding us of home. And as promised Christmas dinner is on you - thanks. Love you!

Mel, the fizz is - quite literally - on ice (or rather snow). No self-respecting Hawk would contemplate Christmas without it!

So - stay tuned for our Christmas Day post. Thank you for following our journey and for your comments - it's great to have that contact and we really look forward to reading them.

Hope you all have a wonderful Christmas day. Thinking of you all. With lots of love...